Clutch

This is the thin sheetmetal plate between the block and the bellhousing. Use one that matches your bellhousing. If switching from an automatic, you do need to get a new block plate!

The T5-to-bellhousing mounting pattern is different than that of other Ford manual transmissions. This means you need to use a T5 bellhousing, or you need to buy a adapter plate that sandwiches between the older (Toploader) style bellhousing and the T5. Your clutch linkage and bellhousing do need to be compatible however!  

The 65-73 vintage bellhousing is the shallowest, and accepts the pivot fulcrum as used on Z-bar style linkages. Unfortunately, the bolt pattern doesn't match the T5's pattern. And, since it is shallower, the T5's input shaft is too long. Both problems are easily solved thru the use of a spacer plate.

All 86-93 T5 V8 bellhousings are the same, and will work with a cable or hydraulic clutch setup and a T5. The T5 bellhousing is about 1" deeper than a vintage Mustang bellhousing, and has a unique bolt pattern to fit the T5. They CAN be made to work with a mechanical linkage by modifying the bellhousing to accept a new fork pivot. You will need a 2"x1"x1" aluminum or steel block and also the fulcrum (the piece the clutch fork pivots on) out of your early bellhousing. Sacramento Mustang, Mustangs Unlimited, and CJPony Parts sell the spacer block, fulcrum, and bolts as a kit for approximately $40. 

Modifying a T5 Bellhousing for Z-bar Clutch Linkage:  To modify the T5 bellhousing, you need to first remove the cable activated clutchfork and fulcrum. Simply pull the clutch fork up and it will come off its clip. Then unbolt the pivot ball. The next step is to mount the mechanical style spacer and fulcrum. The fulcrum and spacer sit exactly 1" from the rectangular opening in the bellhousing. On the T5 bellhousings there is a little oval casting that sits between these two lines. The edge of the spacer basically needs to be mounted right up against this casting, but NOT on it. Mark two lines from each corner of the rectangualar opening extending to the center hole where the transmission mounts. Both these lines should be parallel to each other, and exactly straight!

Now place the spacer in between the two lines. We've determined the spacer should be one inch from the edge of the rectangular opening, up against (but not on) the oval casting mark. Mark the holes and drill. If you want to double check our measurements before drilling, you can tape fulcrum and spacer in place and attach the clutch fork. Then mount the bellhousing on your T5 and check that the clutch fork can pivot without rubbing the input shaft or the rectangular opening. Mount the fulcrum on top of the spacer and bolt it in place. (Note, the spacer kit we obtained from CJ Pony parts came with counter sunk allen bolts. We didn't want to deal with drilling countersunk holes, so we simple replaced them with standard hex-head bolts.

If you mounted the spacer in the correct spot, the hex heads will not interfere with the transmission case. Finally, you will need to hack off the tab on the bellhousing directly in line with the clutch fork opening. This tab is used to mount the clutch cable, and will interfere with the lower pushrod for the manual clutch. You only need to hack or grind off 1/2" or so off the edge, this way you still have the mount in case you ever want to convert to a cable operated clutch.

94-95 T5 bellhousings are even deeper to accept the longer 94-95 T5 input shaft. They'll work, but only with a 94-95 T5.

If your car is already a manual, simply use the existing clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing. You can upgrade the pilot bushing to the late model Mustang pilot bearing. Since you will need to remove the clutch and flywheel to install the T5 blockplate, you may as well take the opportunity to install a fresh clutch.

If your car was an automatic you will need to get a flywheel which matches the balance factor of your motor. All 289's use a 28 oz. balance factor. Early 302's up to 1981 used a 28 oz. factor, but after that point Ford switched to a 50 oz. balance factor. If you mix and match the flywheels (or harmonic balancers) your engine will vibrate itself to death! So be sure you only install the flywheel with the correct balance factor. A good machine shop can convert the more common late-model 50oz. flywheel to a 28oz. balance factor for around $50. The 50oz. flywheels are also drilled for the larger 10.5" diaphagm clutch, which the 28oz. flywheels must use the early style 10" three-finger clutches. You can also find flywheels with removable / interchangable weights.

Stock 28 oz. and 50 oz. flywheels have 157 tooth ring gears measuring 13.294" outer diameter. Some 351W engines, and after market flywheels, have a larger 164 tooth ring gear which has a 14.215" outer diameter and accepts an 11" clutch. The larger clutch will not clear the inside of the T5 bellhousing.

The late-model diaphragm clutch uses a different bolt pattern the the early Long-style clutches! You must match the flywheel and clutch assembly types! The diaphragm clutch / flywheel also uses METRIC bolts as well as 3 locating dowel pins. Ford Racing has the "bolt & pin kit" available thru Summit or Jegs, or you can source the parts from your local Ford dealer - they ARE just stock 5.0 Mustang parts, nothing special. DO NOT try to use 5/16-18 SAE bolts - you WILL strip the threads! 

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Last modified: September 02, 2004