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 | Starter - For me, this was a great time to
upgrade to the late model hi-torque mini-starter. It gains at least an extra
inch of header clearance, has more power, and is less than 1/2 the weight of the
original. Besides, they sound really cool! Wiring
diagram can be found here. The starters from early 289-302 Fords with
automatic transmissions will also work just fine. The starter from any '85-'95 Mustang
5.0, auto or manual, will work. When header clearance is an issue, 1992-95 5.0L
Mustangs use a high-torque mini-starter - you can locate new ones on Ebay for as
little as $60. |
| Crossmember - Since the transmission mounting point is 3/4" further back
and lower than the original transmission, a special cross member is needed for early Mustangs.
Most aftermarket cross
members are designed for use with the stock early transmission mount, so don't
make the mistake and purchase a late model T-5 transmission mount as it will not
work. Not all cross members are built the same - some use flat stock, some use
tubing, so exhaust & e-brake lever CAN be an issue. If you're a good
fabricator, you can make your own - just watch the driveline angles. |
| Driveshaft - The drive shaft will have to be shortened about ¾” to make up for the ¾”
back set. This can be done at any driveline service shop or purchase a new one in steel or aluminum.
I found that a 69-70 Mustang with 351 & FMX uses a driveshaft that is
already the proper length for out T5 & 9" rear combination, for a
ready-made solution. You want to be sure there is 3/4" to 1-1/2" of space
between the base of the slip yoke and the end of the tailshaft housing (not the
seal!), when the car is on the ground. |
| Slip Yoke - The T5 requires a 28 spline slip yoke. The
slip yoke from C4's, C6's will work since they are 28 spline. Most Toploaders
slip yokes will work, however some came with a 25 spline output shaft so be sure
to count. Fords originally with 3 and 4 speed manuals will require a slip yoke
swap. |
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Neutral Safety Switch -
Automatics have a neutral safety switch, so that the car can only be started in
park. For a manual you do not need this, and the switch must be by-passed or the
motor will not start. On early Mustangs the four-plug harness sticks out of the
firewall above the master cylinder. Two of the wires control the reverse lights,
the other two control the neutral safety switch. Splice two of these wires
together and you've bypassed the neutral switch. Which two wires? You'll need to
use a voltmeter or take a couple guesses to find out! On other cars you can
check the wiring diagrams in a shop manual, or trace the wires from the original
automatic shifter. The backup lights can be made to work by connecting the other
two wires to the two leads on the SIDE of the T5 case. Most T5's do have
a neutral switch located on the TOP of the case. You CAN wire it into the
neutral switch harness. This will only allow the starter to engage when the
transmission is in neutral. Not a bad safety / anti-theft idea... |
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Speedometer Cable & Gear - When
swapping from a C4 automatic, your
existing speedometer cable will work. You will however need to put on a T5 speedometer gear, available from your
Ford dealer, in a variety of tooth counts to match your differential gear and
tire combo. Swapping the new gear on simply requires removing the c-clip and
pulling the old gear off and sliding the new one on. Look inside the hole in the
transmission case to find out what color the drive gear is - the color will tell
you if it's 6 (black), 7 (yellow), or 8 (green) tooth. Then check THIS
UTILITY to determine which driven gear you need. Manual equipped cars have much longer speedometer cables. The manual cable
will have to be replaced with an automatic cable. The manual speedometer cable
is routed to go to the passenger side and enter the transmission from the right
side, while a T5/Tremec enters on the left side. Install the automatic
cable through the hole in the lower firewall near the e-brake cable and plug the
other hole with a body plug. |
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